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08/22/2022
 6 minutes

3 Watches That Fly Under the Radar

By Jorg Weppelink

Are you willing to take your love for watches one step beyond the obvious? Whether it’s the Rolex Daytona, the Submariner, or the GMT-Master, almost all watch fans know and love these timepieces. We also all know that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus are the most iconic modern luxury sports watches around, a category started by Gérald Genta, the man that created both of these classics. But do you also have a list of favorites that most people don’t talk about all that much? 

Previously, I wrote about some of the watch brands that fly under the radar of the watch community. Today we’re taking it one step further, compiling a list of watches that deserve every bit of the attention the big names get. While true watch fans might already know them, a lot of watch enthusiasts might not be aware of these hidden gems. Let’s jump in with a selection of three watches that fly under the radar. 

1. Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival 

Let’s start this list off with a sleeper from Zenith, a brand very well known among watch enthusiasts. Many serious collectors probably have a Zenith El Primero chronograph in their collection. Zenith made their mark in 1969 upon releasing their El Primero movement, one of the world’s three first automatic chronograph movements. Upon revealing the El Primero, the brand presented three models powered by it, the A384, A385, and A386. Unfortunately, none of the models stayed in production for long due to the quartz crisis. You might know the story of Zenith watchmaker Charles Vermot who was famously able to rescue the El Primero architecture, which would later allow the brand to reintroduce their greatest legacy timepieces in the 1980s. 

Four decades later, the Zenith El Primero movements are considered watchmaking royalty, with the brand reintroducing the famous El Primero trio of watches as part of the Zenith Chronomaster collection. The most popular out of the three watches has always been the A386, with its immediately recognizable, beautiful case and iconic sub-dials in three different colors. But it’s the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 that I find considerably more interesting. The case of this watch is wonderfully different, and has proven to be the perfect platform for a great variety of spectacular designs. The A385, A3817, and A3818 “Cover Girl” are iconic Zenith releases that are all based on the A384. The modern version of the A384 is the Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival that was introduced in 2019. Zenith kept its dimensions intact, equipped it with a modern version of their iconic El Primero movement, and fitted the watch with the same iconic “ladder” bracelet that it came on in 1969. It’s a joy to see that this icon has returned in style, and the way Zenith did it deserves a great deal of respect. Although it lists for around $9,000, you can find this icon for a lot less on the Chrono24 marketplace. 

The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384
The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384

2. Omega Speedmaster “The Legend” Ref. 3559.32.00

The story of the Omega Speedmaster Schumacher Legend is the story of F1 racing legend Michael Schumacher and the partnership he had with Omega. Schumacher and Omega first started working together in 1996. That year saw the release of two Omega Speedmaster models executed in red and yellow as a tribute to Schumacher’s first year with Ferrari. In the years that followed, Omega released a series of different Speedmasters in collaboration with Schumacher. The most iconic of them all followed seven years after the partnership kicked off to celebrate the German’s sixth F1 championship in 2003, with Omega releasing the iconic Speedmaster “The Legend” ref. 3559.32.00. This iconic release with its Rolex Daytona Paul Newman-inspired dial design and stainless steel bezel is loved among watch collectors. This particular design shows once again just how great a watch the Omega Speedmaster is. 

Omega produced a total of 6,000 pieces of “The Legend” that are all individually numbered. Over time, this release has lost nothing of its relevance, and the design looks as crisp as ever. In 2005, Omega released three new Schumacher Speedies. One of them recalls of the 2004 edition, although there are some differences to be seen. These three timepieces were regular models that remained in production until 2009. But back to that stunning ref. 3559.32.00 from 2004. It comes with a regular 42-mm Speedmaster case, stainless steel bezel, and stainless steel bracelet. Omega equipped the watch with their automatic, chronometer-certified caliber 3301 with a date window at 6 o’clock. Everything about this release is great, and the watch even includes an inscription on the case back referring to Michael Schumacher. Over time, we have seen prices for this model increase. It remains one of the greatest non-Moonwatch Speedmaster releases out there, and will most likely increase in terms of collectability and value. 

The Omega Speedmaster Schumacher Legend
The Omega Speedmaster Schumacher Legend

3. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII “Tribute To Mark XI”

If you have been into watches for a bit, you are without a doubt familiar with IWC’s Mark series. This legendary line of pilot’s watches finds its origins back in World War II with the introduction of what watch collectors know as “The Dirty Dozen.” The British Ministry of Defense (MoD) put together a list of specs and requirements for the Mark X watches they wanted to supply their troops with. Twelve companies adopted the Mark X name and started producing them. By 1944, the MoD was supplying its troops with watches from Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. The IWC Mark X was used by RAF pilots and navigators, and is now one of the world’s most iconic pilot’s watches. 

But it was the follow-up IWC Mark XI that sparked the series we know today. This follow-up to the Mark X was introduced in 1948, and is considered by collectors to be one of the finest military watches ever created. It features an effective, characteristic design with a 36-mm case and black dial, three hands, no date, big luminous markers, and big numerals. Inside the case, you will find the legendary manual-winding caliber 89 that made it such a reliable timepiece for pilots and navigators. 

IWC decided to reintroduce the Mark series in 1993 with the Mark XII. This tribute to the legendary military watches from World War II celebrates Swiss watchmaking and is an homage to military pilot’s watches. The series has evolved over time and has been part of the IWC collection ever since it was reintroduced, changing its Mark name every time a new version came out. In 2017, IWC decided to commemorate the original Mark XI with a special version of the Mark XVIII. The watch now increased in size from its original 36 mm to a modern 40 mm. Additionally, IWC decided to add a date window, and use a modern automatic movement with their 35111 caliber. This timepiece of course also profits from modern-day production quality. What very much remains is the great spirit of the Mark XI with its retro dial design and iconic hand set featuring its squared-off hour hand. It comes on an olive drab NATO strap with leather refinements, making the watch look amazing. This modern version wears like a charm. If you want a tribute to an iconic series of watches, this could very well be your pick. IWC produced 1,948 pieces of the pilot’s watch Mark XVIII “Tribute To Mark XI,” referring to the year of introduction of the Mark XI. You can get your hands on one for a little under its original list price of $4,150. That’s a great catch for a limited edition as good as this one. 

The IWC Pilot Mark XI
The IWC Pilot Mark XI

There you have it, three watches that fly under the radar among the most popular watches from their respective brands. This is obviously just a small selection of great watches that are sometimes, and too often, missed by a wider audience. Keep an eye out for follow-up articles with more of these hidden gems of the watch world.   


About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

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