Now that the dust has settled after Watches & Wonders 2022, it’s time to look at some of the best releases for this year. What were the most talked-about watches of the event, and how might these introductions appreciate or impact the market value of their predecessors?
The Rolex GMT-Master II – The Hype Will Go On
The most talked-about release of this year’s Watches & Wonders was, without a doubt, the left-handed Rolex GMT-Master II. It was definitely not met with universal praise, however. This oddball version of the Rolex GMT-Master is definitely not for everyone. Besides the fact that Rolex flipped the crown and the date to the left-hand side of the watch, it also introduced a new black and green ceramic bezel. While several nicknames quickly found their way onto social media, the debate wasn’t about which nickname will stick; it was mostly focused on why Rolex did this in the first place, and whether or not it was actually a good release.
That being said, as a Rolex sports watch, it is getting plenty of attention and there will be many fans wanting to buy one. And for those who don’t like it, it serves as a reminder of how brilliant the regular Rolex GMT-Master is; perhaps they’ll decide to chase that as their next purchase. Either way, Rolex, and specifically the GMT-Master II, will get a lot of attention in the coming weeks, with increasing prices being a likely result.
Tudor Black Bay Pro – The new Rolex Explorer II?
A true highlight of the show this year was the Tudor Black Bay Pro. This new Black Bay model with a GMT complication draws inspiration from the legendary Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 from the 1970s. There are a lot of watch fans who love that specific first-generation Explorer II, and to see the spirit of the watch brought back to life by Tudor was a nice surprise. As we have come to know from Tudor, the 39-mm size is perfect for a variety of wrists, the in-house movement boasts a great power train, and the design is still very much Tudor despite being inspired by the vintage Rolex.
Tudor has managed to create a watch with a highly legible dial surrounded by a stainless steel 24-hour bezel that looks great on a bracelet or strap. Overall, this is one of the most talked-about and praised new releases. Expect to see waiting lists for this new Tudor.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 – The brand of the year 2022?
The spectacular return of the Vacheron Constantin 222 was the hottest release of this year’s Watches & Wonders. The new Historiques 222 will surely spark a renewed interest in the iconic luxury sports watch originally released in the 1970s. The Vacheron Constantin 222 is the fourth iconic luxury sports watch next to Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur. This year, Vacheron Constantin released a modern re-issue of their iconic 222 “Jumbo” in 18-karat yellow gold. An original Vacheron Constantin 222 “Jumbo” costs between $180,000 and $200,000 today. This new re-issue looks like the perfect homage to the original watch, but comes with a modern movement and overall improved execution and finishing. On top of that, the new watch will cost around $65,000, making it much more affordable than the vintage version.
But whether you can actually get one is the bigger question. Although not a limited edition, the watch is limited in production. So there will only be a select number of happy new owners. I’m sure the hunt for a vintage version will be on as well. The Vacheron Constantin 222 also served as inspiration for the current Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Thus, we will probably also see an increase in demand for the brand’s current modern luxury sports watch. Will 2022 become the year of Vacheron Constantin?
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto
Let’s stay on the topic of modern luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. Technically speaking, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto was released just before Watches & Wonders in February, but the Geneva fair was the first time people had a chance to see it in the metal. The new Sport Auto is the second sports model from this small independent brand, after the massively popular Grand Sport Tourbillon from 2019, of course. The new Sport Auto is a more budget-friendly version of that exclusive timepiece. The new titanium watch features a 41.5-mm case, stunning blue dial, beautiful integrated bracelet, and the spectacular automatic LF 270.01 caliber.
This new Laurent Ferrier is the total package for anyone who’s not aiming for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or a Patek Philippe Nautilus, and seeking something more exclusive and even more special. The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto is priced at 46,000 CHF (approx. $49,500) before tax. I expect people will be jumping on this new version, because it is a great alternative for collectors who already have the iconic Genta designs and want something a little different. The limited production numbers will definitely make this a much sought-after release in 2022 and might make prices rise.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P
The big new release from Patek Philippe was the Annual Calendar Travel Time 5362G. This brilliant timepiece marks the first time the Geneva-based brand has brought together an annual calendar and a travel time complication in a single watch. The overall reaction to this brilliant new timepiece was very positive, and the watch could prove to be a great success for the brand.
But it was a new variation of an already existing model that had people talking at Watches & Wonders: the Patek Philippe 5270P in platinum with a lacquered green dial. This watch replaces the platinum version with a salmon dial featuring Arabic numerals and looks absolutely stunning. For this new version, the brand replaced the numerals with applied hour markers similar to those on the stunning rose gold version with a black dial. The 5270P is one of the most popular watches from the brand, and this new version is breathtakingly beautiful. Moreover, the watch is powered by the brilliant manual-winding caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. This is undoubtedly one of the best watches the brand produces, and with this new execution, my guess is that it will be hugely successful and that only a happy few will be able to buy one. I wouldn’t be surprised to see prices rising on the secondary market.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The last brand I want to mention in this article is Cartier. Cartier is hot property, which was only further showcased during Watches & Wonders. Not only did Cartier release some of the most creative and iconic watches at the fair, but the reactions they garnered also proved Cartier’s strong popularity at the moment. It’s difficult to pinpoint just one model that stood out from the new introductions; all of them were worth talking about. I did, however, pick a series of watches that jumped out at me immediately: the newly introduced Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models. The first has a gray mosaic dial with a rose gold case, and the second features a burgundy red mosaic dial with a yellow gold case. Both of these watches are absolutely stunning with their spectacular dials, but it was the yellow gold version with the black lacquered dial that really took first prize in my mind.
This watch perfectly showcases the incredible iconic value of the Cartier Tank, and the color combination of yellow gold and black is hard to beat. The overall design paired with the hand-wound caliber 1917 MC will make the black Tank Louis Cartier one of the most sought-after watches from Watches & Wonders 2022.
There you have it, six of the most popular introductions of W&W 2022 that are likely to impact the watch market. With so many watches being introduced, there are obviously plenty more releases that deserve attention. I recommend checking out all the beautiful new timepieces on offer and finding yourself a new watch. Happy hunting!
