Dessverre er vårt magasin ikke tilgjengelig på det valgte språket.
03/11/2021
 5 minutes

Jorg: Watch Design Fails and Watches I Don’t Like

By Jorg Weppelink
Jorg: Watch Design Fails and Watches I Don’t Like

Jorg: Watch Design Fails and Watches I Don’t Like

Everyone has watches they don’t like, but what about those you really can’t stand? There are so many models on the market that it’s impossible for them all to suit your personal taste. In this article, I’m not just going to look at watches that don’t interest me or that I willfully ignore. I’ll also discuss the timepieces and complications that I passionately hate. Because let me assure you, there is plenty to get angry about.

Any Men’s Watch With Gemstones

I cannot stand any men’s watch decorated with gemstones. Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires – you name it. I don’t want them, and I definitely don’t need them. Why do I hate it? Because it transforms the magical, marvelous timepieces I love so dearly into flashy, over-the-top statements of wealth. And that’s not what watches are about for me. I get it: Mechanical watches are part of the luxury industry, but if you’re in it to bling it, I have nothing more to say to you.

To be clear, I certainly love watches made from precious metals. A bit of bling is by no means out of the question. But that’s about as much as I’ll personally allow a watch to become a piece of jewelry. The moment you start using diamonds for hour markers or covering the dial and bezel with rubies, it’s gone too far for me.

A solid gold Rolex Day-Date from Jorg’s wish list
A solid gold Rolex Day-Date from Jorg’s wish list

A nice example is the Rolex Day-Date. It’s one of the biggest and most well-respected icons of the industry. A solid gold Day-Date is definitely on my list of must-haves if I ever have the money. Known as the “President’s Watch,” this timepiece is a statement of style, luxury, and class. However, once you bring gemstones into the picture, the Day-Date turns into an obnoxious gesture that flaunts your personal wealth. I’m sorry, but money and posturing are not why I’m interested in watches (or people, for that matter).

Even Rolex Makes Mistakes

While we’re on the subject of Rolex, let me add this: I love quite a few Rolex watches besides the Day-Date. Rolex’s strength lies in its fascinating, colorful history that allows you to really dive deep into the world of vintage Rolex watches. For me, nothing beats a GMT-Master ref. 1675 when it comes to GMT watches. Nor can anything top the classic Submariner ref. 6538 when it comes to diving watches. And lastly, nothing can outdo the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 when it comes to the Rolex at the top of my wish list.

Is the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 an all-time classic?
Is the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 an all-time classic?

On top of Rolex’s great history, the brand also has a selection of absolute beauties in its current collection. The GMT-Master II, the Submariner, the Oyster Perpetual, the Explorer I and II, the Datejust, and the Day-Date are all fantastic timepieces that I would love to wear. However, there are a couple of models that simply do not cut for me. First is the Rolex Air-King. Some call it Rolex’s “fun and quirky” watch; I call it a horrible design mistake. The dial layout combines two scales, which end up making a complete mess. What’s more, the design is “borrowed” from a supersonic vehicle called the Bloodhound LSR. This makes no sense, given that the Air-King historically is Rolex’s aviation-inspired series. There’s just too much going on to make this model truly fun and quirky.

Rolex Daytona 116500LN

A second Rolex that I do not like – and this will come as total blasphemy to many – is the modern Rolex Daytona. To me, it’s just an incredibly boring watch. Is there such a thing as boring perfection? If so, this would be it. I’ve had multiple opportunities to try on a Daytona, and every time I’ve had the same reaction: “meh.” If you’re going to spend over $15,000 on a watch, it should not be a yawn-inducing experience. I would choose a Submariner or a GMT-Master over a Daytona any day and enjoy the savings. It’s simply a much better option.

IWC Redesigns Genta’s Ingenieur

I’m a big fan of watch designer Gérald Genta. Genta is an industry legend and responsible for some of the most iconic watches we know today. His most famous designs are a trilogy of timepieces: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the IWC Ingenieur. While the first two rank among today’s most famous and most coveted watches, the IWC Ingenieur has dwindled into insignificance. It’s not that IWC hasn’t tried to uphold the legacy of Genta’s Ingenieur. Both IWC’s 2005 release of the Ingenieur ref. 3227 and the follow-up Ingenieur ref. 3239 are great Genta-inspired watches.

IWC Ingenieur ref. 3227
IWC Ingenieur ref. 3227

Sadly, those two Ingenieurs ended up being commercial disasters. As a result, IWC redesigned the Ingenieur based on older designs that long pre-date Genta’s version of this modern luxury sports watch. This was a big mistake, in my opinion, as Genta’s legacy is now more popular than ever. If IWC can manage to create an Ingenieur that radiates the spirit of Genta, the famous trilogy will be restored, and we will be able to enjoy watch design history once more. Until that day, we’re stuck with the current uninspiring Ingenieur.

Smartwatches From Luxury Watch Brands

The final pet peeve I’d like to mention is not one model but rather a type of watch. Ever since Apple introduced its popular Apple Watch, luxury watch brands have also been trying to find their own paths to the same consumers. We have seen smartwatches from the likes of Tissot, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Montblanc. However, there is one big problem (well, two actually). First, luxury watch brands are not modern tech companies. This means they have to buy all the technological expertise and components from third parties. As a result, their models will never be up to speed with the latest developments from Apple, which can create their watch entirely in house.

Apple Watch, the choice of many
Apple Watch, the choice of many

Secondly, Apple is already a luxury brand within the world of tech. Many people choose Apple because it offers an exciting take on design, luxury, and quality in the often rather dull landscape of tech products. So if Apple is a luxury brand, what does that make the smartwatches from TAG Heuer and Montblanc? Over-the-top luxury smartwatches. I just don’t see the need to buy one. If I’m on the market for a luxury watch, I will look to the brands mentioned above. If I’m on the market for a smartwatch, I will look to Apple. As someone who has used Apple products every day for the last fifteen years, it’s really an easy choice.

That’s it! Those are some of the watches I don’t like and my thoughts on some of the biggest design fails. As the saying goes, “to each his own.” I don’t think less of anyone who chooses to buy a watch from this list. It’s not all about negativity for me. While it can be fun to get fired up about timepieces you don’t like, it’s never good to stay upset for too long.

Read more

Renting Luxury Watches: A Great Idea or Total No-Go?

Iconic Chronograph Calibers and How to Spot Them

Editors’ Picks of the Week: IWC, Audemars Piguet, and Omega


About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

Read more

Latest Articles

The Cheapest Breitling Watches
02/22/2024
Watch Models
 4 minutes

A Hunt for the Best Breitling Watches Under $5,000

By Donato Emilio Andrioli
2-1-Top-3
01/17/2024
Watch Models
 6 minutes

Five Watches With Explorer Dials That Aren’t a Rolex

By Sebastian Swart
ONP-783-2-1
01/16/2024
Watch Models
 5 minutes

Watches with a pink dial – titillating or tacky?

By Pascal Gehrlein

Featured

10-best-watches-under-2000-1-1-2-1
Top 10 Watches
 5 minutes

10 Best Watches Under $2,000

By Donato Emilio Andrioli
Jorg’s $24,000 Watch Collection
 4 minutes

The Best for $24,000 in 2024: Jorg’s Perfect Watch Collection

By Jorg Weppelink
Rolex-Submariner-2-1
Watch Market
 4 minutes

Three Discontinued Watch Models and Their Remarkable Price Performance

By Sebastian Swart
10-best-watches-under-2000-1-1-2-1
Top 10 Watches
 5 minutes

10 Best Watches Under $2,000

By Donato Emilio Andrioli