09/30/2024
 5 minutes

The Art of Collecting Watches: Different Types of Collectors and Strategies

By Pascal Gehrlein
Type-of-collector-2-1

The Art of Collecting Watches: Different Types of Collectors and Strategies

In the broadest sense, art is any developed human activity that is based on knowledge, practice, perception, imagination, and intuition. Does this remind you of what you do when you have your eye on a new watch? You gather knowledge about the watch, imagining how it’s going to look on your wrist or in your collection, and with more and more experience in the world of watches, you become increasingly confident when buying and selling. Doesn’t it stand to reason that collecting watches and building a collection could also be considered an art form? In this article, we’ll give you tips, inspiration, and strategies to help you collect watches. Let’s start with the first question: What watch collector (stereo)types are there?

The Nostalgic

For the nostalgic collector, the search for the next watch always begins and ends with a date. No, we’re not talking about a watch’s date complication, but the year it was made. An approximation is not nearly enough for this type of collector, who may very well drive a seller or two to the brink of insanity trying to determine the exact year (if not month) of production of a particular watch. It’s perfectly legitimate to insist on this information. And of course the watch’s box and papers are a must. But why is a watch’s year of manufacture so important to the nostalgic collector? The first thing that might help us understand this is the design of a watch. Different eras have different design languages. These allow you to build your collection exclusively with similarly designed watches from the same era. For example, some collectors focus on two-tone watches from the 1980s. Cartier is at the forefront here. For this reason, many very attractive vintage models of the Cartier Santos Carrée or Cartier Must are still in demand today. Cartier introduced these two-tone models as an alternative to the more expensive precious metal watches that had been the mainstay of most brands. Watches like these not only have a special design language, they also have an exciting history that nostalgic collectors will appreciate. The second reason for a collector’s fixation on the year of production is often their own experiences. A collector’s birthday, the birth of their children, a successful or emotional moment in life – there are so many occasions that can be celebrated with the purchase of a watch. This can even be done retroactively by purchasing a vintage watch from the year the special event took place.

Cartier Santos Carrée ref. 2961, ca. 1978
Cartier Santos Carrée ref. 2961, ca. 1978

Did you know: You can also enter this information into to your Watch Collection. Any time you purchase a watch, you can enter all of its data, along with additional information such as personal memories associated with that timepiece, and access them at any time you want to reminisce  

The Theoretical All-Rounder

The theoretical all-rounder is ready for any life situation. They see their watch collection more as a checklist, with each watch category to be checked off. What do I mean by that? This type of collector takes great care to ensure that a watch also covers a function or occasion. Summer vacations call for a robust stainless steel watch that doesn’t need to be taken off for a dip in the pool or ocean. This watch should also have the glamour and prestige for an evening dinner and the ability to hold its own in a room full of watch wearers. It’s clear that we’re talking here about timepieces like the Tudor Black Bay 54 or Rolex Submariner

Tudor Black Bay 54 ref. M79000N-0001
Tudor Black Bay 54 ref. M79000N-0001

For occasions where other watch nerds are present, this collector has a watch that exudes understatement; a kind of “connoisseur’s piece” in the collector community – a Grand Seiko Heritage, for example. For everyday office use, the collection should also include an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. This will show they’re a true watch fan, while also leaving a more down-to-earth impression than the aforementioned Rolex Submariner. (Not to mention the chronograph is very practical for sporting occasions).  For more elegant occasions, a classic Vacheron Constantin Patrimony or a JLC Master Ultra Thin will do the trick. As you can see, each watch has a purpose. Double duty just isn’t what this collection is about. Before every purchase, the question arises: What purpose (outfit, situation, practical use) does this watch serve? Typical of this stereotype is that, in the end, only one watch really spends a significant amount of time on the wrist.  

The Experienced Investor

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Flyback Chrono
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Flyback Chrono

This stereotype may be the most controversial on our list. When buying a watch, this collector makes sure to get a good deal. That is why this type of ChronoPulse is so well known. Despite all the criticism, the investor is often an experienced collector looking for special treasures. And while brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet do feature quite prominently in the portfolio, the focus here is not on making a quick profit. Instead, the goal is to get the so-called “rare birds” and rub other collectors’ noses in it. It’s not uncommon for this collector type to search for an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Flyback Chrono, the original Piaget Polo, or a Patek Philippe 3940. Buying watches online can therefore be a great option for this collector. This is especially true when the investor is in love with special watch features that make these timepieces rare and perhaps even a bit expensive. Short production runs, discolored or “tropical” dials, unusual bracelets, special editions, etc. This collector not only invests a considerable amount of money in their collection, but also the right amount of time to track down these unique pieces. You’re unlikely to find a standard Rolex in this kind of collection. Sound too exclusive for you? You can also apply this strategy on a smaller scale. Buy watches that are different and may (or may not) become popular in the future, and you’ll be well on your way to becoming a seasoned investor.  

The “Old Is Not Gold” Type

Zenith Defy El Primero 21
Zenith Defy El Primero 21

This proud collector is the opposite of the first type in this article. While the nostalgic collector cares about the history of a watch, this type is only interested in modern and technically superior watches. This often goes hand in hand with a certain skepticism and caution when it comes to used and vintage watches. But the reason is not always simply “new is better” – sometimes it’s just pure love of technology that drives this type. The Zenith Defy models and their unique high-beat movements make this collector’s heart beat faster. They also feel at home with a young brand like NOMOS, with its own in-house movements and exciting features like their patented date function. If you want something more mainstream, then the Rolex Sky-Dweller or Milgauss are also technically attractive (enough). The important thing is that the watch should be like new and involve as little risk as possible in terms of investment when you buy it, while also being technically sophisticated. This type of collector can be found among both newcomers and experienced collectors who are always up-to-date with the latest technological advances, patents, and developments.  

Summary

Do you see yourself as one of the above types? Well, try not to take them too seriously, although there may be a grain of truth in them. We hope they’ve inspired you to think about what’s important to you in the art of watch collecting, what defines you and your character, and most importantly, what makes you feel good about watches. Personally, I see myself most likely in the “theoretical jack-of-all-trades” category. What about you?  


What do you think about this article?


About the Author

Pascal Gehrlein

Hi, I'm Pascal. After spending many hours searching for my first luxury watch on Chrono24, I ended up visiting their "Legal details" page and saw their headquarters …

Read more

Latest Articles

Vacheron-Constantine-Overseas-2-1
11/28/2024
Lifestyle
 4 minutes
Thanksgiving Review: Watches we are grateful for
By Chrono24
Jaeger-Le-Coultre-2-1
10/31/2024
Lifestyle
 4 minutes
Partners for Life: Barbara’s Watch Brand of Choice
By Barbara Korp
One-Brand-Sebastian-2-1
10/18/2024
Lifestyle
 5 minutes
Partners for Life: Sebastian’s Watch Brand of Choice
By Sebastian Swart

Featured

Omega-2-1
Top 10 Watches
 5 minutes
Top 10: the Best Luxury Watch Brands of All Time
By Donato Emilio Andrioli
The Top-10 Swiss Watch Brands
Top 10 Watches
 9 minutes
Top 10 Swiss Watch Brands at a Glance
By Sebastian Swart
Audemars-Piguet-2-1
Brands
 5 minutes
My 5 Best Audemars Piguet Watches to Buy
By Aaron Voyles
Omega-2-1
Top 10 Watches
 5 minutes
Top 10: the Best Luxury Watch Brands of All Time
By Donato Emilio Andrioli
The Top-10 Swiss Watch Brands
Top 10 Watches
 9 minutes
Top 10 Swiss Watch Brands at a Glance
By Sebastian Swart
Audemars-Piguet-2-1
Brands
 5 minutes
My 5 Best Audemars Piguet Watches to Buy
By Aaron Voyles